TALKS

Our talks programme is designed to be inspirational, from start to finish. The three headline speakers have been chosen to reflect this year's theme of goal setting and our intention is that you will walk away from the day with a set of goals and some great ideas about how to achieve them! There will also be eight super-psyched women delivering our focus talks on a range of topics requested by the WCS community. This year we will also be  building in plenty of time for your questions at the end of each of each talk.

3

Headline

Speakers

Focus

8

Talks

HEADLINE SPEAKERS

Lisa Rands
We are so psyched to welcome Lisa Rands as this year's first headline speaker!

A former US national champion and World Cup winner, Lisa has inspired a generation of women climbers with her dynamic style and bold, gutsy ascents of climbs previously regarded as only ‘for the guys’.

Her quest for adventure has taken her around the world including the Alpine spires in Patagonia, new bouldering test pieces in Rocklands and first ascents in China. She was the first woman to climb E8 in 2004.
Shauna Coxsey
Our second headline speaker needs no introduction. This year has been an incredible one for Shauna, crowned the IFSC Boulder World Cup Champion and awarded an MBE in the Queen’s 90th Birthday Honours…all in one weekend!

Shauna’s talk will take you behind the scenes on her hugely successful year, and show how this year’s WCS theme - goal setting – helped her focus her training and find the self-belief to become world number one.
Jo Pavey
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FOCUS TALKS

 
Rachel Briggs
Rachel has become an expert at adapting. Over the last 8 years she has overcome serious injury, faced career changes and established her own successful climbing business. She has also gone through pregnancy, birth and being a mother to two small children, yet she is now stronger, more psyched and climbing harder than ever before!
Maddy Cope
Maddy started climbing when she was 17, and 8 years later, climbing, traveling and generally being outside have become a massive part of her life. Routes are her favourite, with trad up to E6, and sport up to 7c+ insight/8b redpoint. Her favourite adventures have been to the Dru, Half Dome and El Cap.
Rebecca Dent
Rebecca is a High Performance Dietitian leading the way providing the latest true nutrition science and advice to the outdoor/adventure industry. She ventured into this field to enable her to combine her job with her love of adventure, (particularly climbing!). Rebecca runs her own business based in the Peak District and this is her 4th year at WCS.
Madeleine Eppensteiner
24-year old Austrian climber Madeleine Eppensteiner completed her Masters degree in Psychology at the University of Innsbruck. She has been climbing for nearly 16 years, competing in international youth competitions and making podiums. More recently, she has focused on bouldering. Throughout her studies, she has concentrated on sport psychology and, with her personal background and experience in climbing, Madeleine is able to place a special emphasis on the psychology of our sport.
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Climbing Psychology

Projecting

Nutrition for Climbing Performance

Climbing+Life:
Finding Equilibrium

Rachel has become an expert at adapting. Over the last 8 years she has overcome serious injury, faced career changes and established her own successful climbing business. She has also tackled pregnancy, birth and being a mother to two small children, yet she is now stronger, more psyched and climbing harder than ever before!

This talk will explore ideas to inspire a new and positive approach to your climbing, even when balancing it with major life changes.

For those who are willing to overcome the barriers of trying something

that is "too hard", the reward is hugely satisfying. Projecting can teach you lessons, which lead to improvements in both your climbing and 

your attitude towards it. 

In the last few years, Maddy has really pushed her grade by changing her attitude to redpointing. 

This talk will explore the lessons Maddy has learnt along the way, enabling you to learn from her mistakes and apply her successes to your own projects. 

Gain an insight into what it is like to train and eat like an elite climber. You will leave this session 

armed with tools to help you set your own nutrition goals and promote your own training and health for maximised climbing performance. Plus lots of ideas on what to eat during climbing, for snacks and at meal times! 

Rebecca will be joined for a Q&A by up-and-coming GB boulderer Gracie Martin, who has been working to promote her performance through goal setting and nutrition.

Explore the importance of goal setting from a sports psychology perspective.

 

We all have different goals in our lives. In climbing they are far-ranging: wanting to achieve a certain result at a competition, reaching a milestone in outdoor or indoor climbing or returning to full strength after an injury. But what exactly is a goal? Do we always automatically reach our goals? How can we improve our goal setting? And how can we work towards achieving what we have set out to do?

Jackie Hueftle
Jackie has been setting in walls since 1998. She has set over 50 comps including USA Climbing Junior Nationals and Mammut Bouldering Championships. Jackie is the Head Setter at The Spot in Boulder where she trains new setters, runs a crew of eight on a weekly basis, and sets multiple big comps every season. She believes good setting is the key to a good gym community and that female setters are an important part of a well-rounded setting programme.
Sam Leary
Sam has been rock climbing and mountaineering for over 30 years. She is a an outdoor professional holding the Mountain Instructors Certificate (MIC) and lives in North Wales in the summer and Scotland in the winter, with various trips as an instructor in between, Sam's work takes her adventuring all over the world. By the time of WCS she will just have returned from guiding in Africa!
Siobhan Miller
Libby Peter
I fell in love with mountains in my teens, spent my twenties sampling everything from aid-climbing to high altitude mountaineering, and gained every possible qualification to allow me to work in these beautiful and remote places. In my thirties I added two daughters to the mix. The life of a mountain guide and freelance instructor is infinitely varied, deeply rewarding, and unlike any 'real job’, but it is also insecure, tough and dangerous. My favourite office is still the one out there…
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Trad Top Tips

IN THE MIND OF A ROUTESETTER

Climbing Injuries and Prevention

Working and playing in the mountains

Find out why more women can - and should - set routes, how to read a route, and what the setter was thinking at the time! 

Drawing on 18 years of experience in the field, Jackie will discuss the who, what, when, where, how, and most importantly, the why bother of participating in a physical, male-dominated profession like routesetting. She will explain why setting is one of the most important jobs in the gym, how to start, and how to continue to learn and grow as a setter to improve your own climbing and maximize your customers' experience.

Want to improve your trad skills and discover the joys of the mountain environment? Join Sam as she takes you through her top tips for successful and enjoyable trad climbing:

  • Technical: racking, gear, ropes and practical skills.

  • Tactical: planning, problem solving and avoidance, making good choices, even when pumped!

  • Physical: efficient climbing, training, multi-pitch and multi-day routes.

  • Psychological: training, preparation, breaking it down, managing fear.

Injuries are an unavoidable part of climbing...or are they?

Siobhan brings stories and examples and tips from 

her work treating a variety of sports injuries as a physiotherapist, as well as those gained as a yoga and pilates instructor.

Key areas will include:

  • The importance of prehabilitation and cross training to reduce injury rates. 

  • Injuries specific to female climbers

  • Stages of returning to climbing post injury

Love climbing and wish you could spend more time doing it? Want to make the mountains your office? Not sure where to start and lacking the courage to make a big life change? 

Libby Peter has over 30 years of experience as a top mountain guide. In this talk she will inspire

you to consider making brave choices, explaining how she made a life and career out of her passion,

and take you through some other examples of women who have successfully made it in the climbing industry.

© 2020 Women's Climbing Symposium.

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